
Catmint is one of the easiest flowering perennials to grow in a sunny garden. Its soft gray-green foliage forms spreading mounds covered with lavender-blue flowers, attracting bees and butterflies while asking for remarkably little attention in return.
Once established, catmint tolerates drought, poor soil, summer heat, and occasional neglect. Deer and rabbits generally avoid it, serious pest problems are uncommon, and many varieties flower for weeks at a time.
Even better, the first flush of flowers doesn’t have to be the end of the show.
When the initial blooms begin fading, cutting catmint back can stimulate a fresh mound of foliage and another wave of flowers later in the season. This simple midsummer haircut is one of the best ways to keep Nepeta attractive instead of allowing it to become long, floppy, and tired-looking.
Catmint is also frequently confused with catnip. Both belong to the genus Nepeta, but the ornamental plants sold as catmint are commonly hybrids or selections such as Nepeta Γ faassenii and Nepeta racemosa. True catnip, Nepeta cataria, tends to be taller and rangier, reseeds more readily, and is generally much more attractive to cats.
For the ornamental garden, catmint offers a much neater package: long flowering, aromatic foliage, pollinator value, drought tolerance, and a soft spreading habit that works beautifully along paths, around roses, in cottage gardens, and at the front of perennial borders.
πΏ What Is Catmint?
Catmint is a general name for ornamental plants in the genus Nepeta, which belongs to the Lamiaceae, or mint, family.
The genus contains numerous species native primarily to Europe, Asia, and surrounding regions.
Garden catmints are most commonly derived from species and hybrids such as:
- Nepeta Γ faassenii
- Nepeta racemosa
- Other ornamental Nepeta species and hybrids
The plants typically form low to medium-sized clumps of gray-green aromatic foliage.
From late spring into summer, slender flowering stems rise above the leaves and carry clusters of small two-lipped flowers.
Lavender-blue and violet are the classic colors, although some cultivars produce pale blue or white flowers.
When planted in groups, mature catmint can create the appearance of a soft blue-purple cloud hovering above silvery foliage.
β‘ Catmint Fast Facts
Botanical name: Nepeta spp. and hybrids
Common name: Catmint
Family: Lamiaceae
Plant type: Herbaceous perennial
Typical height: Approximately 8 inches to 3 feet depending on cultivar
Typical spread: Approximately 1β3 feet
Light: Full sun to partial shade
Best flowering: Full sun
Soil: Average, dry to moderately moist, well-drained soil
Water: Moderate during establishment; drought tolerant afterward
Bloom season: Late spring through summer, often reblooming after cutting back
Flower colors: Lavender, blue-purple, purple, or white
Foliage: Gray-green to silvery green and aromatic
Hardiness: Commonly approximately USDA Zones 3β8 or 4β8 depending on cultivar
Propagation: Division, seed, or cuttings depending on type
Deer resistance: Generally excellent
Rabbit resistance: Generally good
Pollinators: Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other visitors
Main care task: Shearing after the first bloom to maintain shape and encourage reblooming
Main problems: Flopping in rich or shaded conditions and occasional unwanted spreading or reseeding
πΈ Catmint vs. Catnip: What’s the Difference?
Catmint and catnip are related, but they are not interchangeable terms in practical garden use.
Catnip is specifically Nepeta cataria.
It generally grows around 2 to 3 feet tall, has a looser and less ornamental habit, and can reseed aggressively.
Catnip is grown primarily because of its effect on cats and sometimes for use as an herb.
Ornamental catmint usually refers to more compact, flowering Nepeta species and hybrids selected for landscape use.
One of the most common is Nepeta Γ faassenii, a sterile hybrid that produces masses of lavender-blue flowers without becoming a prolific self-seeder.
These ornamental forms usually produce tidier mounds and substantially stronger flower displays.
Cats may investigate ornamental catmint, but many cultivars are noticeably less attractive to them than true catnip.
If you are designing a perennial border rather than a cat garden, ornamental catmint is generally the better choice.
π Will Cats Roll in Catmint?
Possibly.
Some cats respond to ornamental catmint, although reactions are usually less dramatic than with Nepeta cataria.
‘Walker’s Low’, for example, is generally less attractive to cats than true catnip.
Individual cats vary considerably.
One may ignore the plant entirely while another rolls on it enthusiastically enough to flatten young stems.
If you have a cat that strongly reacts to Nepeta, protect newly planted catmint with a temporary wire barrier until the crown becomes firmly established.
Mature plants usually recover from occasional feline attention.
βοΈ How Much Sun Does Catmint Need?
Catmint performs best in full sun.
Six or more hours of direct sunlight encourages:
- Dense growth
- Abundant flowers
- Strong stems
- Compact plants
- Better drought tolerance
Partial shade is tolerated, particularly in hot southern climates.
In regions with intense summer heat and humidity, light afternoon shade can actually help some cultivars maintain better foliage.
Too much shade creates a different problem.
Stems stretch toward available light, flowering declines, and plants become much more likely to flop.
If a catmint produces long green stems with relatively few flowers, insufficient sunlight is one of the first things to investigate.
π± What Soil Does Catmint Need?
Catmint is refreshingly undemanding.
It grows in clay, loam, sandy soil, and even relatively rocky ground as long as drainage is good.
Average soil is often better than extremely rich soil.
A highly fertile bed can encourage enormous amounts of soft growth, causing stems to fall outward and leave an open center.
Catmint is therefore an excellent perennial for areas where gardeners are deliberately trying to reduce fertilizer and irrigation.
The main soil requirement is good drainage.
Constantly saturated soil can weaken roots and crowns, particularly during winter.
πͺ¨ Catmint Likes Lean Soil
Gardeners sometimes assume every flowering perennial needs rich soil improved with large quantities of compost.
Catmint often proves otherwise.
Lean soil helps keep the plant compact and sturdy.
If your garden already contains reasonable soil, there is little reason to create an exceptionally fertile planting hole.
This is particularly true with vigorous cultivars such as ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Six Hills Giant’.
Too much fertility can produce a very large plant that collapses outward after rain.
Give catmint what it needs rather than trying to make it grow as rapidly as possible.
π± How to Plant Catmint
Choose a sunny location where the mature plant has room to spread.
Dig a hole approximately as deep as the root ball and somewhat wider.
Remove the plant from its nursery container and loosen severely circling roots if necessary.
Set the crown at approximately the same level it was growing in the pot.
Backfill with the surrounding soil.
Water thoroughly.
Avoid burying the crown deeply beneath soil or mulch.
Spacing depends on the cultivar.
Small varieties may need only 12 to 18 inches of room, while larger plants such as ‘Walker’s Low’ can spread 2 to 3 feet.
Read the plant label and plan for the mature width rather than the size of the young nursery plant.
π§ How Often Should You Water Catmint?
Newly planted catmint needs consistent moisture while developing its root system.
Water deeply whenever the upper soil begins drying during the first growing season.
Once established, Nepeta becomes highly drought tolerant.
Mature plants generally need supplemental irrigation only during prolonged dry periods.
Avoid shallow daily watering.
Deep, occasional watering encourages stronger roots and allows the soil surface to dry between applications.
Container-grown plants need considerably more attention because their roots cannot reach beyond the pot.
πΏ Can You Overwater Catmint?
Yes.
Catmint handles occasional dryness much better than constantly saturated soil.
Too much moisture can produce:
- Yellowing leaves
- Weak floppy stems
- Crown decline
- Root problems
- Reduced winter survival
Wisconsin and NC State Extension sources consistently emphasize well-drained soil for Nepeta.
If a mature plant is growing vigorously without supplemental water, there is no reason to irrigate it simply because neighboring moisture-loving perennials need watering.
Grouping plants according to their water needs makes catmint much easier to grow.
πΏ Does Catmint Need Fertilizer?
Usually very little.
Catmint performs well in average garden soil and rarely needs heavy feeding.
Too much nitrogen encourages soft vegetative growth that can flop.
If your plant already reaches its expected size and produces abundant flowers, adding fertilizer offers little benefit.
A modest amount of compost in poor soil is generally sufficient.
Container plants may need occasional fertilizer because repeated watering removes nutrients from the potting mix.
Even then, feed lightly rather than trying to force maximum growth.
πΈ When Does Catmint Bloom?
Most ornamental catmints begin blooming during late spring or early summer.
The first flowering flush is generally the heaviest.
Lavender-blue flower spikes can nearly cover the foliage for several weeks.
As the blooms fade, plants may begin looking gray, brown, and somewhat untidy.
This is the perfect time to cut them back.
New foliage develops quickly, and another flush of flowers often follows during late summer or early fall.
In suitable climates, this cutback-and-rebloom cycle can give catmint color across much of the growing season.
βοΈ How to Keep Catmint Blooming
The most important technique is simple:
Shear the plant after its first major bloom.
Once most flowers have faded, cut the stems back by approximately one-third to one-half.
Illinois Extension recommends cutting catmint back by about half after flowering.
Do not worry if the plant looks temporarily bare.
Fresh foliage quickly emerges from the remaining stems and crown.
Within several weeks, the mound generally looks cleaner and more compact.
New flower spikes then develop.
This one pruning session can turn a tired midsummer catmint into a fresh late-season perennial.
βοΈ Does Catmint Need Deadheading?
You can deadhead individual flower spikes, but it is rarely the most efficient method.
A mature catmint may carry hundreds of small flowering stems.
Removing each one individually would be unnecessarily tedious.
Instead, wait until the majority have faded and shear the entire plant.
This removes old flowers, stimulates new foliage, controls flopping, and prepares the plant for another flowering cycle all at once.
For small compact varieties or container plants, selective deadheading may be practical.
For a large border planting, shearing is much easier.
βοΈ How Far Should You Cut Catmint Back?
After the first major flowering, remove approximately one-third to one-half of the plant’s height.
If the stems have become especially floppy, cutting them back by half is reasonable.
Leave healthy lower foliage and crown growth.
Do not repeatedly cut the plant completely to ground level during summer unless severe damage makes it necessary.
A moderate haircut preserves enough leaf area for rapid recovery.
Within a short time, fresh gray-green foliage begins hiding the cut stems.
πΏ Why Does Catmint Flop Over?
Flopping is the most common ornamental problem with catmint.
Several factors can contribute.
βοΈ Too Much Shade
Low light causes stems to stretch and weaken.
Move the plant into stronger sunlight if possible.
π± Soil Is Too Rich
Highly fertile soil creates excessive soft growth.
Avoid heavy fertilizer.
π§ Too Much Water
Frequent irrigation encourages lush stems and reduces the naturally compact character of drought-tolerant catmint.
πΏ Cultivar Is Naturally Large
‘Six Hills Giant’ and ‘Walker’s Low’ can become substantial plants.
Their broad arching form is normal.
βοΈ Plant Needs Shearing
After flowering, old stems naturally become less attractive.
Cutting the plant back restores its shape.
A well-sited catmint in full sun and moderately lean soil rarely needs staking.
πΏ Why Is My Catmint Opening in the Middle?
Older or excessively vigorous plants sometimes develop an open center while stems fall outward in a ring.
This often happens after heavy flowering.
Do not attempt to tie the entire plant upright.
Shear it back.
Fresh stems will emerge and produce a denser mound.
If the problem happens every year before flowering is finished, excessive shade, water, or fertility may be contributing.
Very old clumps can also be divided during spring to rejuvenate them.
π± Does Catmint Spread?
Yes, although the amount varies enormously by species and cultivar.
Most ornamental catmint expands gradually by clump growth.
Some types spread more broadly or produce seedlings.
The sterile hybrid Nepeta Γ faassenii is particularly useful because it does not produce viable seed and therefore remains much better behaved than true catnip.
Other Nepeta species may reseed more readily.
Colorado State University specifically recommends sterile ornamental cultivars in situations where uncontrolled reseeding is a concern.
Always check the cultivar rather than assuming every catmint behaves identically.
β οΈ Is Catmint Invasive?
Most modern ornamental catmints are not generally regarded as aggressive invasive garden plants.
However, the genus is diverse.
True catnip, Nepeta cataria, can reseed enthusiastically and become weedy.
Certain other seed-grown Nepeta species can also spread more than gardeners expect.
Sterile cultivars such as many Nepeta Γ faassenii selections are much less likely to become a nuisance.
If your goal is a predictable ornamental border, choose a named cultivar rather than an unidentified seed-grown catmint.
π± How to Divide Catmint
Catmint can be divided, although it generally does not require frequent division.
Illinois Extension notes that established Nepeta Γ faassenii seldom needs dividing.
If a mature plant becomes too large or develops a weak center, division can rejuvenate it.
Spring is an excellent time.
Dig around the entire clump.
Lift it from the soil.
Use a sharp spade or knife to separate it into several healthy sections, making sure each contains both roots and shoots.
Replant the divisions immediately at their previous depth.
Water them thoroughly until established.
π± Propagating Catmint From Cuttings
Catmint can also be propagated from stem cuttings.
Take healthy non-flowering shoots during spring or early summer.
Remove foliage from the lower portion.
Insert the stems into a moist, well-drained propagation medium.
Provide bright indirect light while roots develop.
Maintain enough moisture to prevent wilting without saturating the growing medium.
Cuttings are particularly useful when you want an exact copy of a named cultivar.
Be aware that some modern cultivars may be protected by plant patents that restrict unauthorized propagation.
π± Growing Catmint From Seed
Some Nepeta species can be grown easily from seed.
Seed propagation is less useful for sterile hybrids such as Nepeta Γ faassenii, which generally do not produce viable seed.
Seed-grown catmint may also vary from the parent plant.
If you want a very specific height, flower color, or growth habit, purchasing or vegetatively propagating a named cultivar is more predictable.
True catnip, Nepeta cataria, grows readily from seed and can self-sow enthusiastically.
That ease of seed production is one of the major differences between catnip and many modern ornamental catmints.
πΈ Popular Catmint Varieties
There are numerous excellent ornamental selections.
π ‘Walker’s Low’
‘Walker’s Low’ is probably the best-known ornamental catmint.
Despite its name, it is not exceptionally short.
The name comes from the garden where it originated rather than its height.
Mature plants can reach approximately 2 feet tall and 18 to 36 inches wide under favorable conditions.
The plant produces masses of lavender-blue flowers above aromatic gray-green foliage.
It was selected as the 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year.
‘Walker’s Low’ is drought tolerant once established, generally deer resistant, and particularly attractive to pollinators.
π ‘Six Hills Giant’
‘Six Hills Giant’ is a larger catmint well suited to broad borders and cottage gardens.
It can reach around 2 feet or more and creates a substantial flowering mound.
Give it enough space.
Trying to squeeze a large cultivar between small perennials almost guarantees a floppy, crowded appearance.
It works particularly well when planted in groups or allowed to spill naturally around taller structural plants.
π ‘Junior Walker’
‘Junior Walker’ offers the look of ‘Walker’s Low’ in a somewhat smaller package.
Compact cultivars are useful for smaller borders and along pathways where a 3-foot-wide mound would be excessive.
They can also perform well in containers.
π ‘Little Trudy’
‘Little Trudy’ is a particularly compact catmint, generally staying around 8 to 12 inches tall.
Its shorter habit makes it useful in rock gardens, at the very front of borders, and in smaller landscapes.
Colorado State lists it among catmints suitable for well-drained sunny rock gardens.
πΏ Catmint as a Ground Cover
Although catmint does not form a flat carpet like creeping thyme, its broad spreading mounds can function as a large-scale flowering ground cover.
Illinois Extension specifically recommends it for this purpose.
Plant several catmints together and their canopies eventually meet.
The combined planting suppresses weeds, softens hard landscape edges, and creates a broad drift of lavender-blue flowers.
This works especially well:
- Along sunny slopes
- Beside long walkways
- In parking-strip plantings
- Across large perennial beds
- Around roses
- In drought-tolerant landscapes
Choose a cultivar appropriate to the scale of the area.

πΉ Catmint and Roses
Catmint and roses are one of the classic perennial combinations.
The soft lavender-blue flowers complement almost every rose color.
Gray-green foliage contrasts with glossy rose leaves.
Low-growing catmint can also help shade the soil around roses without becoming tall enough to hide the flowers.
Most importantly, both appreciate abundant sunlight and well-drained soil.
Plant catmint outside the immediate crown of the rose so the two root systems have room.
After the first catmint bloom fades, shear it back while the roses continue flowering.
Fresh catmint growth provides another round of color later.
πΈ Catmint and Salvia
Catmint and salvia share several useful characteristics.
Both thrive in sunny gardens.
Both attract pollinators.
Both tolerate periods of drought once established.
And both respond well to removal of spent flowers.
Their flower shapes are similar enough to create harmony while their growth habits provide contrast.
Use a low spreading catmint beside more upright flowering sage for a layered blue-purple planting.
πΌ Catmint and Yarrow
Yarrow makes another excellent companion.
Both tolerate relatively lean soil and become drought tolerant after establishment.
Yellow, peach, white, or terracotta yarrow flowers provide strong contrast with blue-purple catmint.
Because neither plant needs constant irrigation, they can share the same lower-water section of the garden.
πΌ Catmint With Shasta Daisies
White Shasta daisies emerging behind blue-purple catmint create a classic summer combination.
The flowers have completely different forms.
Catmint produces small spikes.
Shasta daisies produce broad white flower heads.
The contrast creates more interest than planting several similarly shaped flowers together.
Both appreciate full sun.
πΎ Catmint With Ornamental Grasses
Ornamental grasses provide upright movement behind catmint’s softer rounded form.
Fine grass blades contrast with the fuzzy gray-green Nepeta leaves.
The combination is particularly effective in drought-tolerant and prairie-inspired gardens.
Choose grasses that remain appropriately scaled.
A giant ornamental grass can visually overwhelm small catmint cultivars, while a large ‘Six Hills Giant’ planting can hold its own beside more substantial grasses.
πͺ΄ Can Catmint Grow in Containers?
Yes.
Compact catmint cultivars work particularly well in containers.
Use a pot with drainage holes and fill it with quality, well-drained potting mix.
Place the container in full sun or very bright partial sun.
Water when the upper potting mix begins drying.
Container plants need more frequent irrigation than those growing in the ground because roots cannot reach deeper soil moisture.
Avoid leaving the container permanently standing in water.
After the first flowers fade, shear the plant back just as you would in the garden.
Fresh foliage and additional flowers should follow.
βοΈ Overwintering Potted Catmint
Catmint is cold hardy, but roots growing inside a container experience lower temperatures than roots insulated by garden soil.
In climates near the cultivar’s hardiness limit, move containers into a protected location for winter.
An unheated garage, sheltered wall, or other protected area can help.
Keep the plant dormant rather than trying to maintain active indoor growth.
Water occasionally so the root ball doesn’t dry completely.
If practical, transplanting perennial catmint into the garden before severe winter weather provides much greater root protection.
π Is Catmint Good for Bees?
Yes.
Catmint is one of the most dependable pollinator perennials for sunny gardens.
The numerous small flowers provide nectar and pollen over an extended period.
Penn State Master Gardeners specifically highlight catmint as a favorite in pollinator gardens, particularly for bees.
Because cutting the plant back produces another flowering cycle, it can provide resources during more than one part of the season.
Planting several catmints together creates a particularly noticeable pollinator destination.
π¦ Does Catmint Attract Butterflies?
Yes.
NC State and Illinois Extension both identify butterflies among the wildlife attracted to ornamental catmint.
The long bloom period adds to its usefulness.
Combine catmint with later-flowering perennials such as sedum and garden phlox to extend the season.
A diverse garden containing multiple flower shapes and bloom periods supports a wider range of insects than a single-species planting.
π¦ Does Catmint Attract Hummingbirds?
Hummingbirds may visit the tubular flowers.
Illinois and Colorado State Extension resources include hummingbirds among the wildlife attracted to Nepeta.
However, catmint’s greatest pollinator value is generally associated with bees and butterflies.
Use it alongside plants with larger tubular flowers such as salvia to offer hummingbirds a broader range of nectar sources.
π¦ Is Catmint Deer Resistant?
Yes.
Catmint is considered highly deer resistant.
Its strongly aromatic foliage makes it much less attractive than many other perennial flowers.
NC State specifically identifies deer resistance in ornamental Nepeta, while Penn State also describes catmint as deer resistant.
No plant is completely deer-proof.
An extremely hungry deer may sample almost anything.
Nevertheless, catmint is one of the stronger perennial choices where browsing pressure is a recurring problem.
π Do Rabbits Eat Catmint?
Rabbits generally avoid ornamental catmint as well.
Penn State and Colorado State both note rabbit resistance.
Young plants can occasionally suffer exploratory browsing, but established clumps are not usually preferred.
The combination of deer resistance, rabbit resistance, drought tolerance, and long flowering makes Nepeta particularly useful in lower-maintenance landscapes.
π Does Catmint Have Pest Problems?
Serious pests are uncommon.
NC State describes ornamental catmint as having no significant insect or disease problems under appropriate growing conditions.
Occasional aphids, mites, or other insects may appear without seriously damaging the plant.
Healthy established clumps generally require no routine pesticide program.
This is especially beneficial in pollinator gardens, where avoiding unnecessary insecticide applications helps protect the bees and butterflies visiting the flowers.
π¦ Root Rot in Catmint
Although catmint has few serious diseases, poorly drained soil can create root problems.
Some cultivars have shown varying susceptibility to pathogens such as Pythium and Phytophthora under wet conditions.
The simplest prevention is good drainage.
Avoid planting catmint in low areas where water stands after rain.
Do not maintain permanently wet container soil.
If a plant wilts while growing in saturated soil, resist the temptation to water it again.
Inspect the root zone first.
πΏ Why Is My Catmint Turning Brown?
Brown or tired-looking catmint after flowering is extremely common.
The old flower spikes begin drying.
Stems spread outward.
Foliage may become less attractive.
The cure is usually pruning rather than fertilizer or pesticides.
Cut the plant back by roughly one-third to one-half.
Water if the soil is exceptionally dry.
Fresh foliage should quickly replace the aging growth.
If the browning occurs before flowering and soil remains constantly wet, investigate drainage instead.
π‘ Why Are My Catmint Leaves Turning Yellow?
Yellow foliage can indicate several conditions.
Too Much Water
Poorly drained soil is a common culprit.
Natural Aging
Older lower leaves may yellow as the flowering stems mature.
Excessive Shade
Weak shaded growth can become pale.
Root Problems
Waterlogging can damage roots enough to interfere with normal nutrient uptake.
Nutrient Deficiency
Possible, but considerably less common than gardeners often assume.
Check water and sunlight before applying fertilizer.
πΏ Why Isn’t My Catmint Blooming?
Catmint normally flowers enthusiastically.
Poor flowering often points to one of a few environmental issues.
Too Much Shade
Full sun produces the best flower display.
Excessive Nitrogen
Rich fertilizer encourages foliage instead of flower spikes.
Plant Needs Cutting Back
After the first bloom, old flowers need to be removed to stimulate the strongest rebloom.
Recent Planting
A young plant may spend its first season developing roots.
Extreme Stress
Waterlogged soil, severe drought, or root damage can reduce flowering.
Correct the site before adding more fertilizer.
π± Why Is My Catmint Not Coming Back?
Catmint is normally quite cold hardy.
If an established plant disappears completely, winter wetness may be as important as winter temperature.
Poor drainage can damage crowns while plants are dormant.
A very young plant may also be more vulnerable during its first winter.
Wait until spring is reasonably advanced before giving up.
New growth emerges from the crown and may be difficult to see initially.
If the plant repeatedly dies in one specific location, evaluate drainage before replacing it.
π Should You Cut Catmint Back in Fall?
You can, but it is not always necessary.
After frost kills the foliage, stems can be cut near the ground.
Some gardeners prefer to leave perennial stems standing over winter and clean them up in late winter or early spring.
Either approach works.
If the plant experienced disease or substantial stem damage, fall cleanup may be preferable.
Otherwise, leaving the crown undisturbed until spring is perfectly reasonable.
Cut away old stems before fresh shoots become large enough to make cleanup difficult.
π± What Does Catmint Look Like in Spring?
Fresh shoots emerge from the crown as temperatures warm.
The young growth quickly develops into a soft gray-green mound.
This is a good time to remove any previous year’s stems that remain.
It is also the best season for division.
If the plant flopped badly the previous year, evaluate its surroundings now.
Spring is the easiest time to move a catmint into stronger sunlight or leaner soil before it becomes a large flowering mound again.
π§± Catmint Along Walkways
Catmint is especially effective beside sunny paths.
Its stems naturally spill outward, softening hard pavement edges.
The fragrant foliage releases additional scent when brushed.
However, mature size matters.
A cultivar spreading three feet wide should not be planted six inches from a narrow walkway unless you enjoy constantly trimming it.
Use compact varieties for tight paths.
Reserve vigorous forms such as ‘Walker’s Low’ for broad walkways where their arching habit can be appreciated without obstructing traffic.
πͺ¨ Catmint in Rock Gardens
Compact catmint performs beautifully in rock gardens.
Its gray foliage suits stone naturally, while good drainage keeps roots healthy.
Smaller selections such as ‘Little Trudy’ are especially useful because they remain low enough to avoid overwhelming miniature rock-garden plants.
Once established, their drought tolerance also matches the needs of many other rock-garden species.
Combine compact catmint with ice plant, sedum, and other sun-loving plants that appreciate fast-draining soil.
π‘ Where Should You Plant Catmint?
Catmint works particularly well in:
- Perennial borders
- Cottage gardens
- Pollinator gardens
- Rose gardens
- Drought-tolerant landscapes
- Rock gardens
- Along walkways
- Meadow-style plantings
- Gravel gardens
- Containers
- Mass plantings
- Deer-resistant gardens
Its soft mounding habit makes it especially useful at the front or middle of a border.
Larger varieties can fill substantial space.
Small cultivars make excellent edging plants.

β Frequently Asked Questions About Catmint Care
Is catmint the same as catnip?
No. Catnip is specifically Nepeta cataria. Ornamental catmint generally refers to more compact Nepeta species and hybrids selected for flowers and landscape performance.
Will catmint attract cats?
Some cats are interested in it, but ornamental catmint is generally less attractive to cats than true catnip.
Does catmint need full sun?
Full sun produces the strongest flowering and most compact plants. Light afternoon shade can be helpful in very hot climates.
How tall does catmint grow?
Depending on cultivar, plants range from less than a foot tall to approximately 2 or 3 feet.
How wide does catmint grow?
Many cultivars spread 18 inches to 3 feet across.
Is catmint drought tolerant?
Yes. Established plants are highly drought tolerant.
How often should you water catmint?
Water regularly during establishment. Mature plants generally need supplemental water only during extended drought.
Does catmint need fertilizer?
Usually very little. Overfertilization can cause excessive growth and flopping.
How do you keep catmint blooming?
Shear the plant back by roughly one-third to one-half after the first flowering flush. Fresh foliage and another crop of flowers usually follow.
Does catmint need deadheading?
Individual deadheading is unnecessary for large plants. Shearing after the main bloom is faster and more effective.
When should catmint be cut back?
Cut it back after the first flowering period to encourage rebloom. Dead stems can also be removed in fall or early spring.
Why is my catmint floppy?
Too much shade, fertilizer, water, or naturally vigorous growth can cause flopping. Shearing after bloom restores the plant’s shape.
Does catmint spread aggressively?
Most named ornamental cultivars form spreading clumps. Sterile Nepeta Γ faassenii selections do not reseed aggressively, while catnip and some seed-grown species can become weedy.
Does catmint need dividing?
Not frequently. Divide older plants only when they become too large or develop weak centers.
When should catmint be divided?
Spring is generally the easiest time.
Can catmint grow in pots?
Yes. Compact varieties are excellent for containers as long as drainage is good.
Does catmint attract bees?
Yes. It is an excellent bee plant.
Does catmint attract butterflies?
Yes. Butterflies also visit its flowers.
Is catmint deer resistant?
Yes. Its aromatic foliage generally makes it highly resistant to deer browsing.
Is catmint rabbit resistant?
Yes. Rabbits usually avoid established plants.
Can catmint grow in poor soil?
Yes. Average or relatively lean soil can actually produce sturdier plants than extremely rich soil.
Can catmint grow in clay?
It can grow in clay as long as drainage is adequate.
Why isn’t my catmint reblooming?
The old flower spikes may not have been cut back, the plant may be in too much shade, or general stress may be limiting new growth.
πΈ The Secret to Catmint That Blooms for Months
Catmint is easy enough to grow that the biggest mistake is often giving it more care than it needs.
It does not need exceptionally rich soil.
It does not need constant irrigation.
It does not need heavy fertilizer.
And it does not need gardeners painstakingly removing one tiny faded flower at a time.
What it needs most is sunshine, drainage, and one good haircut.
Plant Nepeta in full sun with enough room to develop its natural spreading mound. Water regularly while it becomes established, then let the soil dry somewhat between irrigations.
Avoid pushing the plant with nitrogen fertilizer.
Let the first wave of lavender-blue flowers cover the plant in late spring and early summer.
Then, when that display begins fading and the stems start falling outward, take your shears and cut the whole plant back by roughly one-third to one-half.
For a short period, it may look surprisingly bare.
Then fresh gray-green foliage appears.
The mound fills out again.
New flower stems rise.
And another wave of blue-purple flowers begins.
That simple cycle is what makes catmint such a useful perennial.
It can flower for months, attract pollinators, tolerate drought, discourage deer and rabbits, and cover a substantial amount of ground without demanding constant maintenance.
For sunny perennial borders where you want maximum performance from minimum effort, ornamental catmint is difficult to beat.
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π Sources & Further Reading
- NC State Extension β Catmint (Nepeta)
- NC State Extension β Nepeta Γ faassenii
- NC State Extension β Walker’s Low Catmint
- Illinois Extension β Catmint
- Illinois Extension β Catmint Ground Cover
- Wisconsin Horticulture β Catnip, Nepeta cataria
- Penn State Extension β Catmint Is a Pollinator Favorite
- Colorado State University Extension β Herbaceous Perennials